Would wood mulch next to building be a factor in attracting carpenter ants?
Wood mulch will most definitely attract carpenter ants. They're quite good at detecting certain smells and decaying wood (aka: wood mulch) is number one on their list of "10 best places to live".
Does this mean you shouldn't have wood mulch on your property? No. If you want to keep wood mulch but not attract carpenter ants, treat with either the CARPENTER ANT BAIT or the SUSPEND mentioned in our CARPENTER ANT CONTROL ARTICLE. Baiting the mulch will be the most cost effective. As foraging ants come around, they'll no doubt encounter some of the bait, eat it or bring it back to the nest and eventually consume some. This will have a deadly consequence and once a few ants die, the colony will recognize the source of the problem and avoid the area.
Liquid spraying with Suspend isn't as easy to do but you will have the added benefit derived from using a residual meaning that liquid treatments will cover any invading pest. Use about 1 gallon of finished product for every 800 sq/ft of mulch and treat every 2-3 months to keep them in check. Since wood mulch tends to attract everything from termites to scorpions to roaches to springtails, treating it with a liquid would be the better of the two preventive treatments for carpenter ants.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Bait: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/granule/pt-advance-carpenter-ant-granules
Suspend: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/suspend-sc
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
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Is winter a good time for ant fumagation? Can it be done by homeowner?
In general, most carpenter ants will shut down as winter sets in and outside temperatures drop. But if there is a nest located on or in your home, it could very well keep warm enough to enable the ants to keep active. And if this happens, treating is strongly suggested. But what's the best treatment for these winter time ants?
In general, most winter time activity will be members of the ant colony foraging for food. So it only stands to reason the best approach to get them where they nest is to use a bait. The best bait for inside the home is our CARPENTER ANT GEL. Place small dabs out where you see activity and once they find it, they'll no doubt take some back to their nest where it will be shared with others. In the days following the sharing of the bait, the nest will shut down and die.
Now if you see a lot of ants in one area and have an idea of where they may be nesting, you might consider treating the rooms with PHANTOM AEROSOL. This aerosol contains a slow acting ingredient and like the gel, won't spook or alarm the colony. But after just a few days, ants that walk over treated areas will in turn contaminate the nest. This will usually kill it in 1 to 2 weeks and your problem will be solved.
No doubt carpenter ants can be a problem even in the winter. And whether you do the work yourself or hire a service company to treat, it's strongly advised that something be done. Leaving them to chew and gnaw away at your home could amount to costly repairs that can easily be prevented with one of the two treatments listed above.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-carpenter-ant-gel-1-oz
Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Carpenter Ant Article: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
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Over the last two weeks My laundry room has been infested with carpenter ants, they are very slow moving and sometimes just going around in circles and then they die, they have been centered around the furnace and water heater. The dead ones just stay there (not collected by live ones as I have seen in the past) but then more live ones appear following the same pattern. We have always had them in our house to differing degrees and have treated them with barrier sprays etc, but we have found them mainly in the kitchen and bathrooms and have never had this problem of them dying "enmass" in previous years. Please advise.
It would appear that one of your satellite carpenter ant nests has fallen victim to either a previous treatment or social disease. This commonly happens and is one of the reasons carpenter ants will have a main nest surrounded by 2-4 satellites. This way a component nest can die and the community will survive and resurrect itself through the effort of it's surviving satellites.
I'm not sure what you've been applying but based on what you're finding, it's obvious you need to do more. For starters I suggest you get some PHANTOM AEROSOL and treat as much of the area around the furnace as possible. I also suggest you start using some PHANTOM EC outside. As explained on it's product page, this unique active will slowly "kick in" and when it does, all the ants that have come in contact with it will die. This is very different from how many concentrates work and in fact, why most fail as a general way to control carpenter ants. Our article covers many options but based on your situation, I believe the Phantom is the way to go for now. Because of it's mode of action, any ants that forage over it will die and in you situation, this will surely happen. Ultimately you'll stand a much better chance at winning the war against this pest.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Phantom Concentrate: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/phantom-21-oz
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
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Hi, I'm going good with the chippy trap that I bought. Now I see Carpenter ants in my shed and small ants all around my yard. No ants in the house. Can I use one combination of products to apply outside to start to control these pests? Like a spray and a gel? Also, the temp is nearing 40 degrees at night, is this too cold and I should wait until Spring? Thanks so much.
If you read through our CARPENTER ANT CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll see there are plenty of options available that can handle this pest. Some of these are for treating nests that are active in specific locations. Based on your message, it would seem likely there is a nest in the shed and maybe 1-2 others around the yard. And if you leave them untreated now, no doubt they'll be back next year and at that time, will be looking to expand their size and territory. My advise is that you knock them out now.
To accomplish this, you could use 2-3 products. The simplest approach would be to bait the shed with some CARPENTER ANT GEL. This will no doubt infiltrate and kill any nests that contains ants that eat some.
Next I'd spray the exterior of the home with some PHANTOM. Lastly, I'd bait the yard with some MAXFORCE GRANULES. This will no doubt take care of most all pests you might have in and around the home and since it's still early fall, you have plenty of time for these products to take effect and knock them out now.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
Carpenter Ant Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-carpenter-ant-gel-1-oz
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/phantom-21-oz
Maxforce Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/granule/maxforce-gran
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We have a 23' trailer that is parked in a camp on the edge of a forest. We have had it for two years. Last year we started noticing the large black ants inside the trailer, on the floor, the odd one in the cupboards, maybe a dozen or so would be there when we got there on the weekend. I have put out ant dust and ant poison but there are still more the following weekend. There are none in the attached Florida room. This summer we are seeing fine white powder/tiny granules coming from the ceiling vents and when my husband turned on the air conditioner this past weekend it was like a snowstorm. Do you have any suggestions for us? Carpenter ants are known to be prevalent in the park. Thank you.
My first suggestion is that you read our CARPENTER ANT CONTROL ARTICLE. This in depth reading will cover all you need to know if you want to get rid of these destructive ants. In the article you'll find links to the products that can be used to solve the problem but I can tell right away that your situation will require a combination of bait and spray. And not just any bait or spray but two that are unique in that they take a long time to work. This insures they'll get "worked" into all the local nests so once the active ingredient starts to work, the colonies will be destroyed because they won't know what hit them.
As our article explains, carpenter ants chew through wood for making nests. One of the results of this chewing will be sawdust and it sounds like you're seeing enough of that to substantiate a large nest. But are you seeing any ants trailing? Any place you see ants active you need to leave be and do not disturb them. I also suggest you remove the dust and "poison" you've set out as both will do nothing more than spook these guys which will effectively make it harder to control them. Knowing where they're active and leaving them alone will insure you can use the workers to "bring back the poison" you're about to set out.
Now once the old products you applied have been removed, you should set out some CARPENTER ANT GEL anywhere inside where you see them active. This slow acting bait will be readily accepted and shared with other colony members which ultimately means the death of these nests. It uses "honey dew" as the main attractant and this is something these guys need to feed their young so they'll greedily consume any you place out.
Next you should treat the outside with PHANTOM CONCENTRATE. Spray the foundation, under the trailer and basically anyplace you either see activity or suspect they might be active. Like the Gel, this active is slow acting and won't spook or affect any of them for several days. But by walking over the treated surfaces they'll unknowingly be bringing some back to their nests which in turn will mean their demise.
Lastly, be sure to spray periodically around the trailer to insure they don't come back. Carpenter ants are persistent and strong. And as our article explains, they'll commonly have several nests all interconnected so it's important that you keep a regular maintenance program in place to prevent re-infestations. And FYI, our article explains that finding the nest is usually quite important but in some cases that's hard to do. I suspect you have one of these situation so the products I recommended are ideal for when you can't locate the colony and made for the job.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
Carpenter Ant Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-carpenter-ant-gel-1-oz
Phantom Concentrate: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/phantom-21-oz
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WE HAVE AN OLD MAPLE THAT IS LOADED WITH CARPENTER ANTS. IS IT TOO LATE TO SAVE THE TREE?
It's not likely carpenter ants can kill a tree by themselves. In fact most trees will develop weak spots where pests like ants love to nest. But even after a nest is started, most won't harm a tree. However, there are a few that can and no doubt carpenter ants are one of these "bad" species.
That being said, in my experience it's more likely they'll use spaces, cracks and crevices already present on the tree to make their nests. Such areas will develop under the bark or where limbs sustain normal damage due to weather or wind. So if you're seeing a healthy tree full of leaves and void of any evident sickness, it's more likely the ants have an active nest but that the tree is still very much alive. Such trees should be able to live indefinitely and are designed to overcome mild insect activity. But should you allow the ants to continue nesting even if the tree is healthy? No way!
If you'd like to ensure the tree's long term health, get it treated with some TERMIDOR. This unique formulation is slow acting and as ants travel over the treated bark, they'll be picking up a dose of active that will eventually spread throughout their nest. Within 4-8 days, it will effectively shut down any nests it's carried to making it both effective yet easy to use without knowing where the nests are located. But if you can see where the nest is located, a direct treatment with the DRIONE will be fast and immediate. Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Termidor: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/termidor-sc-20-oz
Drione: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
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Hi,
We have hired exterminators and they have not worked to get the ant problem that we have under control. The ants are no longer in the house but as soon as the outside of the home that has been sprayed wears off they again show up in our home. We have located numerous nests and would like to handle the situation ourselves. Can you please advise us on the products that may be most helpful to control the outside ant population. We live in an area with a few smaller trees but very few. All nests that we have located have been in the ground and 1 in a stump that has been removed since. What type of treatment would you recommend to kill ants in the outdoor nests and to control our problem? The nests have all been located in mulched areas and two main nests with multiple other satellites have been found.
Thank you,
Andy
The good news is it sounds like you've done most of the work needed to solve this problem. As explained in our CARPENTER ANT CONTROL ARTICLE, knowing where nests are located can make solving problems easy. And based on your detailed message, you know there are several nests and you seem to know where they're located. This is big.
At this point, I'd say all you need is the DRIONE, PHANTOM and TERMIDOR. Use a CRUSADER to get the Drione applied to any nest you see. This will kill the nest within minutes. The benefits of Drione are explained in our article and in this case should be able to handle 90% of the problem.
Next, spray the foundation with the Termidor. This slow acting active will get the ants by surprise. It's non repellent and insects can't detect it which makes it lethal. As they come to the home and start foraging over treated areas, they'll be picking up the Termidor and ultimately bringing some back to the nests you've missed. Once the Termidor kicks in (which will take 3-5 days), these hidden nests will be shut down. This should take care of the 10% you miss with the Drione.
Lastly, keep the Phantom Aerosol for use inside the home. Phantom is like Termidor in that it's slow acting and non repellent. Use it sparingly inside the home where you see ants. Phantom is unique in that it goes on dry and when applied properly, can't be seen. I use it in my home which has nothing but hardwood floors. Even with all the shiny surfaces you can't see anything has been sprayed.
Follow this process and you should have the problem resolved in a week. Here are direct products to the products and information listed above:
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
Drione: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Termidor: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/termidor-sc-20-oz
Crusader: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader
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Yesterday, I noticed a long trail of ants (thousands) moving into my porch. They were carrying pupae and many different sizes were there. I baited along the trail with Sweet Gel and a Protein gel. I also dusted the trail with a mixture of boric acid and sugar. This morning there was no sign, however I know they are there. What should be my next step?
At this point you should monitor the situation and see if there are ants out and about foraging around the porch or other areas of the home. As our CARPENTER ANT CONTROL article explains, these guys will generally create satellite nests which will be located around one main nest. It sounds like you encountered a local colony trying to set up a satellite nest. It's also normal for most species of ants to "up and move" when their nest is in danger. This could result from a disturbed nest site; a foraging animal could have torn into an old log or space where this colony was living. Afterwards, the survivors decided to move the nest. But nests will relocate when faced with too much water. Heavy rainfall can cause them to relocate an established nest. In fact, if their nest is too hot for the eggs or pupae they'll get up and relocate too so the list is long as to why this could happen. The bottom line is when they do so and end up inside or on a structure, it will usually result in more ants and ultimately damage of some kind.
Now is it possible they accepted your bait offering and are all dead? Yes. But it's not likely. In most cases the members of the mobile nest will be reluctant to feed much when on the move. Only when they've set up their new nest and have depleted any food they brought with them will be on the prowl again and ready to risk accepting something new to eat. So you're probably right; they might be out of sight but there is a good chance they have set up a new nest somewhere in or around the porch and it's just that you haven't seen them just yet.
So what should you do? Take a pro active approach and get rid of them once and for all. Since getting these ants to eat a bait can be tough when they're either moving or recently made a move, spraying a slow acting product will prove much more effective. Inside the home apply some PHANTOM AEROSOL. This odorless spray goes on dry and won't leave any visible residue when used properly. Use it throughout the porch and living area where you see activity or suspect they may be hiding.
Outside the home spray the foundation with some PHANTOM or TERMIDOR. Be thorough with your treatment to insure you get any place they may be active and remember to inspect the local turf, trees, mulch, etc. attempting to locate nests that may be on your property. Any suspect area should be treated as well. Since carpenter ants are likely to have 2-4 nests all linked, there is a good chance another nest is located somewhere close to your home and in the end, getting all of them is the only way you can insure the problem is resolved.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
Phantom Concentrate: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/phantom-21-oz
Termidor: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/termidor-sc-20-oz
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Hello:
I have used your products in the past, most recently using a great paint additive that worked on my home's exterior trim and cedar barnsiding to repel insects, bees, etc. I am now confronted with a problem with carpenter ants and need some advice.
A few years ago carpenter ants entered through a second floor bedroom window sill and the company that monitors my Sentricon system drilled holes in the drywall beneath the sill and dusted. Since that time I have observed one or two stray ants in that area; however, this week the same thing happened in another bedroom on the opposite side of the house…should I have that same treatment repeated there? Do you have any suggestions for me or products that I, as a homeowner should be using? I asked the representative if, while painters are here doing interior painting I should just have the drilling and dusting done throughout the second floor beneath windows and I was told not to and that the dusting only lasts 3-6 months…I am now at a loss because painting is expensive and drilling, dusting, then repainting is costly…please advise about any outdoor and indoor treatments I can pursue…thank you!
If you read through our CARPENTER ANT CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn this ant tends to create several nests which "network" together thus forming one super colony. So though it sounds like you were able to get one nest some time ago, it no doubt had links to other nests which are now sending in support to try and reconnect. At this point they've either established a nest on your home or will if you allow them to go about their travels untreated.
Based on how many you're reporting, I don't know that dusting will resolve the level of activity you're seeing. As our article explains, this approach is best only when you're sure there are ants in the void you're treating. And if in fact they were in any of these other window sill areas, I think you'd be seeing a lot more activity. No doubt DRIONE would be the product to use if this was happening but again, I don't think that treatment will help the best for what's happening now.
What should be done is a perimeter treatment using TERMIDOR and PHANTOM. Simply spraying the foundation around the outside of the home will have a big impact. Any ants walking over the treatment will bring the active back to their nest which in turn will kill the colony. This means you'll be able to get these satellite nests without having to know exactly where any are located.
If you're seeing any ants inside the home, use the Phantom along baseboards and other areas they're active. It's odorless, goes on dry and won't make a mess when used properly. It works just like the Termidor but is best suited for use inside. A combination of these two products will no doubt take care of these ants whether they're nesting in the home now or trying to create a new nest.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Control Article: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
Drione Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust-1-lb
Termidor: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/termidor-sc-20-oz
Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
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We had some carpenter ants coming out of the wall outlet in the cupboard over our microwave last year. Probably 20-30 over a month long period. I killed most of them, then they quit coming in. Now it is happening again, this time they are coming in from behind the microwave. I have done online research and my concern is they have a nest in that wall. I have drilled some 1/4" holes under the microwave between studs to see if any come out. This wall is an exterior wall and I went outside to look for trails or wood for them to nest in. I found no trails, but we had some railroad ties lining a pathway about ten feet from the house. There were no ants in them, but I could see spots where it looks as though ants or termites might have been in the wood. I have removed them. The basement is unfinished below this wall – I see no activity or sawdust on the foundation below this wall. I plan on going up in the attic to look today. My home was built in 2000, I am in Salt Lake City Utah. Stick frame home on concrete foundation with vinyl siding. How do I find the nest?
HELP! Thanks.
If you read through our CARPENTER ANT CONTROL ARTICLE, you'll learn this species of ant will many times have several "nest" locations. This network of nests will support one another making it difficult to eradicate them for good. Many times you'll be able to find one satellite nest, kill it and everything will be quiet for awhile. But eventually they'll return as the surviving nests work to save what they believe to be a "sick" or "injured" sub colony. It sounds like this might be happening in your home right now but don't panic; there are ways to deal with this situation.
The first thing I recommend is to dust as much of these exterior walls as you can with DRIONE DUST. As our article explains, it will both kill and repel most any insect. Carpenter Ants hate this stuff and will avoid where it's been applied. If the ants you see are members of the same colony but coming from nests located away from the home, this treatment alone might exclude them for good. You see, the ants you see right now might in fact be coming from some remote location and don't necessarily have a nest in or on your house. If you killed the initial nest you found, its entirely possible this new activity are ants coming back trying to set up that which you destroyed.
After applying the Drione, you could then do one of two things. The simplest would be to apply TERMIDOR to the exterior of the structure. This residual treatment will take care of any ants in a slow and stealthy way that will kill the entire nest – even if it's located far from the home. At the same time I'd apply some PHANTOM AEROSOL to the interior areas where you're seeing any activity. Like the Termidor, this treatment will affect the colony the same way; slow and steady. Usually within 4-7 days of the ants making contact with treated surfaces, their nest will be shut down.
If you follow this regime, I'm 100% sure you'll knock out the problem without having to spend an arduous amount of time searching. Today's products can control problem ants even when the nest is hard or impossible to locate so there is no reason to waste a lot of time trying. Get it treated as explained above and you'll be done with them for good.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Control: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
Drione Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Termidor: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/termidor-sc-20-oz
Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz
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I have found Carpenter Ants on & near my sliding door in my 2nd floor bedroom. I have an outside deck off the bedroom & support beams are cemented into the home's brick wall. On the underside of the deck flooring (outside from the ground) closest to the brick wall & the sliding door, the edge of my 3/4" plywood flooring is visible. Also, the Deck Railings need to be completely replaced. There are places where they have rotted out. I have sprayed Carpenter Ant/Termite Insecticide repeatedly inside & outside. I have dead Carpenter Ants showing up near the sliding door inside. I am sure the Nest is either in the wall or in my 3/4" sub floor. Would it be best for me to Dust with "Drione Dust" using a Crusader Duster w/a Long nozzle and drill a 1/8th" small hole in my sub floor to apply the Drione?
From the description you've provided, there is no doubt in my mind the DRIONE DUST is the way to go. In my experience, aerosol products can kill some of the ants active in the area which you're no doubt seeing now as a result of your treating. But it won't last long and has a tendency to get absorbed by the wood making it less than effective. This can happen quickly and in the end, leave the nest ready to rebound. Additionally, aerosols won't penetrate deep enough compared to Drione and when it wears off too soon, offspring from the nest will enable it to continue on.
Drione, on the other hand, will both penetrate better and last longer. In many cases it can take care of the problem in no time. A good dusting with the CRUSADER should do the job. I don't think you'll need any kind of extension; the natural floating action of the Drione should get it deep into any of these voids where it needs to be.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Drione Dust: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Crusader: http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/dusters/crusader
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I think that I have identified the ants we have by your article. However, they are in the house, in the wall behind our bath tub faucets. So when you take a bath, the water flow noise apparently disturb them so they come out and then drop into the bath water. What is the best pesticide to use and what do you suggest is the best way to get to them to poison?? This is a most distressing problem with ants almost everywhere when you take a bath. I can hardly make myself take a bath and I have to scoop out dead ants prior to getting into the water!!! I will appreciate any help you can give us. Thank you in advance.
In most cases people are not aware of where the ants are nesting. In your case, you seem pretty sure where they're living. In fact bathroom walls are one of the most common locations for carpenter ants to use. These areas are usually moist and at least humid which carpenter ants love. No doubt this is why they target the bath room in so many homes.
I recommend using the most direct approach possible. That means drilling some holes and pumping the DRIONE dust into the wall void. Drill between the studs all the way around the room. These holes can be above any water proof walls you might have. And don't forget you can access this space from two sides. That means if there is a closet on the other side it might be easier to drill through that wall instead of the closet.
I also suggest doing a good dusting on the outside of the home. This should be done now and then in the spring I'd followup with some CARPENTER ANT BAIT and spray on the foundation. The BIFEN is a good product to use and if done throughout the year, you won't have any chance of a reinfestation.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Drione: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page91.html
Carpenter Ant Bait: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page253.html
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we are finding one or two ants a day ( or evening ) on the floor or kitchen counter in our mobile home in Zephyr hills ,florida—they appear to be dead ,then will move a bit as we try to kill them—why are they lethargic and what can we do about them–I have even found one or two on the bed during the day. We were sprayed in December, 2010.
Based on the small amount of activity you're seeing, I'm not sure you can track the ants like we explain you should do in our CARPENTER ANT ARTICLE. But as you can see, they'll remain active throughout the winter if the nest is located somewhere on the home. At this point I would suggest setting out some CARPENTER ANT GEL. Any that feed on it will be affected and with any luck, some will bring it back to the nest and kill it before spring arrives.
If the nest is still active this spring, I'm sure you'll see a surge in the activity. At that point you should be able to locate the nest and treat it with the DRIONE DUST discussed in our article. This would be your best option if you know where the nest is located. If not, using the TERMIDOR would probably knock them out if you do a thorough treatment.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Carpenter Ant Article: http://www.carpenterants.com/carpenter-ant-control
Carpenter Ant Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page560.html
Drione Dust: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page91.html
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